Alternatively water green orange in Hermes

Aqua Mirabilis (or Admirable water), the name given to the dawn of the 18th century by Gian Paolo Feminis its Cologne - the first in the history - ICES wonderfully to certain designs. But is not Mirabilis who wants. The selection criteria to include this very closed circle are multiple and the application of "be" is growing. Why such a buzz Need fresh Yes, that was born of simplicity and authenticity. A return to the sources, to a very aristocratic stripped elegance. The hereditary members of the upper House of the perfume, set the tone: Cologne Extra Vieille in Roger & Gallet, Original water of Cologne to 4711, Imperial for Guerlain. Alternatively, water green orange in Hermes. "For a long time, the marks have shunned this pattern of composition". The breaking of the colognes in large distribution from the 1960s - of well-being to Mont St. Michel - had changed the face of this olfactory institution ", explains Florence Pras, responsible for the prospective olfactory at Givaudan." In the eyes of the public, it was more the Aqua Regina ancient courts of Europe and synonym of luxury. The cologne recently in the bathroom, alongside other objects of everyday hygiene, SOAP, shampoo... As the waters of Lubin, Guerlain, Rochas or Hermes remained the prerogative of a clientele of connoisseurs and privileged.

But in 2001, turn 180 : the beautiful resumes its letters of nobility with the Thierry Mugler Cologne and Cologne Blanche followed by three Dior human creations, silver timber, water black in 2004. Today, not a brand that uses the word cologne. And Florence Sapp added, "this olfactory form has great strength." It integrates so little for raw materials, that any creative Audacity is immediately updated in light. "

For Hermès, Jean-Claude Ellena gives two new visions of the cologne. Contrast between acidulous grapefruit zest and the delicacy of a velvety notes of rose water of pink grapefruit. White musks transparency underlined by (rare in perfumery) gentian complex in its sometimes bitter, sometimes smooth shades for water white gentian. "Same quest in diptych with the water of Tarocco (name of a red blood orange) where Olivier Pescheux, perfumer for Givaudan, a citrus spice tip of cinnamon and especially a rudder slightly"cuiré"." Work on a cologne structure has always been a difficult exercise ", says Dominique Ropion, perfumer in IFF signs orange for Roger & Gallet wood." First challenge, renew the genus, while retaining the freshness of the three traditional facets, hespéridée by the bergamot, orange blossom with the small grain, neroli essential oil, and camphorated by Rosemary. Second difficulty, dosing with surgical precision to wood, flowers or fruits to not switch to light water. "Wood of orange, he has reinterpreted the iconic Cologne Extra Vieille, giving his note orange blossom alertness by blackcurrants and Basil-verbena, and depth with patchouli and atlas cedar." 4711 House takes it the challenge in his collection of five Acqua Colonia involving each time Majesty a duo of species. To discover, Melissa & Verbena (verbena and Melissa) and Vetyver & Bergamot.

Cologne spirit lies also in the heart of compositions that did are not necessarily the name but in subtly master characteristics. For example, Nicolai summer water, a vision of the Mexico, small citrus lime found in Coca Cola. Or Cedar Armani private Olympus. It is a wood, of course, dry and racy but bathed freshness by bitter orange and bergamot. Perfumers, apprehend a fragrance with an Aqua Mirabilis requirement imposes the use of materials first exception. Hynôse man Cologne of Lancôme sheds its lavender and his wood by small grain and citrus fruits, coriander seed. At Dior, stop at Pondicherry magnifies the black tea and cardamom then that I love, the water Cologne Florale is beautiful to the magnolia supported by bergamot from Calabria and the neroli essential oil. As in the fathers of our fathers, the gesture is ample. This time nothing that in itself has value now than if he feels good absolute luxury.